When I was a baby my mom and dad would chuck me onto the backseat plywood platform my dad built for car trips up north. I rolled around wrapped up like a baby burrito, heading straight north from St. Paul. We were headed for Duluth where my Grandma and Grandpa lived. My first trip was before I turned one. I’ve visited Duluth and Minnesota’s North Shore every year since then. I’ve been there for every season and my heart still fills up with love starting with my first glimpse of Lake Superior, the largest fresh-water lake in the world.
Not only do I want you to experience the North Shore for its natural beauty, I want you to sauna and cold-plunge, if you dare. I used to feel claustrophobic in the sauna, but these saunas have large picture windows overlooking Lake Superior shoreline and I never feel trapped or antsy. The cold-plunge aspect helps the whole experience last longer, since you heat up, cool down, and repeat, sipping on tea. It feels good to get hot, especially during winter. The North Shore stays cool even in the summer months. I love the cooler temperatures, I love winter (Minnesotan, born and raised) and I love the contrast between steamy hot sauna and freezing cold-water. The cold plunge works true magic. The feeling of euphoria lasts long afterwards, sending you home to sleep like a baby.
We drive north of the Twin Cities to Duluth, which takes about 2 hours. We arrive in Duluth hungry for breakfast and head straight to The Duluth Grill. The breakfast menu is full of delicious and nutritious food and I have enjoyed everything I have ever eaten here. After breakfast we like to walk around Canal Park, stroll along the lovely boardwalk alongside The Lake, and peek into shops and the Maritime Visitor’s Center. Check their board for the timetable for ships coming and going; hearing the bells ring, the lift bridge rising up, and a giant international cargo ship sailing by is a thrill.
And then, it is time for the first North Shore sauna experience. The Cedar + Stone Nordic Sauna is a beautiful spot for having a sauna and cold plunge. They even have a cold plunge deck to use Lake Superior for your plunge. You can stay in Duluth overnight. There are great hikes, music festivals, bike trails, beer gardens, cideries, fun restaurants and shopping. Add Love Creamery in Lincoln Park to your itinerary for a unique flavor bomb ice cream cone. For a great dinner recommendation I would send you to The New Scenic Cafe for a delightful night out.
Continuing to drive north, I recommend stopping by Knife River for stops at Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen and Russ Kendall’s Smoke House to up-level your road trip snack situation. You will be glad you did when you stop along the North Shore state parks to hike, find waterfalls or wild swim in the rivers (be careful!) as you drive ever north. If you like to bike you should use the Gitchi-Gami State Trail for its safe-from-cars winding path that begins in Two Harbors. Do you like to stop in delightful forest coffee shops? Then visit The Cedar Coffee Company and picnic under the trees with your coffee and snack. Maybe you want a late lunch after biking and hiking? Do you like pie? Okay please check-in at The Rustic Inn for a nice walleye sandwich with a slice of pie for dessert. This is the best pie on your journey north.
As you drive to Grand Marais, please stop at each and every state park along the way, there are no bad choices. The scent of cedar and pine gets stronger the further north you drive and the forest bathing opportunities are too good to drive past.
Lutsen is a nice place to stop and experience Lutsen Mountain, for gondola rides and alpine sliding in the summer, or skiing in the winter. Hiking and biking here is lovely in summer and there is a golf course nearby. If you want a special souvenir I recommend stopping at The Clearview General Store to pick up knitted hats and mittens from the talented Jamie Rex (here is her Etsy Shop). And there is another excellent coffee shop stop next door offering fresh roasted bags of beans at Fika Coffee.
And then, the setting for your next sauna experience, Sisu + Loyly. When my husband and I have stayed on the north shore we try to get a place in Grand Marais, or at least within a short drive. We like to sauna every night we stay, just to store up all the good energy and euphoric vibes until our next visit. When you’re not in the sauna, Grand Marais is full of sweet experiences, such as The World’s Best Doughnuts, Drury Lane Books, and Upstate. We always look forward to eating some Superior whitefish at The Angry Trout restaurant and The Fisherman’s Daughter. There is a charming shop called the Big Lake Art and Gift to look for pottery and jewelry, and such good ice-cream at Superior Creamery. Yes, I am basically proposing you live off of ice cream, superior whitefish and coffee (oh and candy and pie) while you sauna, cold plunge and forest bathe in the northwoods. If you’re quick-fingered and watch the sign-up calendar carefully, you can register for a class at North House Folk School. Classes fill up quickly. Even visiting their lakefront campus is inspirational and you can book a sail on their sailing ship the Hjordis. Artist’s Point is walking distance from the center of town and offers rocky cliffs to scramble and look out over the lake. You can kayak the East Bay of the lake with kayak rentals from Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply, who will also offer to guide you on hiking or cross country ski trips. Both are heavenly.
If you have more time I think you should drive up the Gunflint Trail and have lunch at Poplar Haus while you search the woods and wetlands for moose. If you want a third sauna experience you can book yourself into the Gunflint Lodge and stay in their cabins. They will outfit a trip into Minnesota’s famous Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA) if you can fit that dreamy experience into your plans, or just stay overnight and enjoy the lodge, great food, and outings.
We really enjoyed visiting Grand Portage National Monument. It’s close to the Canadian border and offers the experience of walking through the historic village of the North West Fur Trading Company (pack a cooler with lunch). This is another day trip and gives you the chance to buy some cinnamon rolls from Chicago Bay Bakery in Hovland on the drive up.
The whole time you are visiting the North Shore, hiking and forest bathing and sauna-ing, I want you to cross your fingers and wish hard that you will see the northern lights. The lack of light pollution on the North Shore gives you an amazing chance to really enjoy the Aurora Borealis and there are even forecasts and apps for seeing the lights, year round.
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